Hagurosan Kotakuji Shozen’in Temple 羽黒山荒澤寺正善院

Before the religious reforms of the nineteenth century, less distinction was made between kami Shinto deities and Buddhist deities than today, and furthermore, kami were worshipped as manifestations of Buddhist deities. The reforms, however, sought to separate kami and Buddhist deities, and create a clear separation between the religions. Many of the temples on the mountains were closed or destroyed, and some became shrines after removing their Buddhist statuary, sutras, and scrolls. The main hall of Jakkoji, on Mt. Haguro, became the Sanjin Gosaiden of Dewa Sanzan-jinja Shrine. The principal images were relocated to Kotakuji Shozen’in, which was one of a handful of temples to survive the reforms.

Koganedo Hall and the preservation of cultural artifacts

Koganedo (“Golden Hall”) at Kotakuji Shozen’in houses the principal images removed from Jakkoji and other temples on Mt. Haguro. The collection comprises Buddhist works from many different eras including the Heian (794–1185), Kamakura (1185–1333), and Muromachi (1392–1573) periods. Some of the most important works include the statues of Kannon, the bodhisattva of compassion (worshiped on Mt. Haguro), the Amida buddha, the celestial buddha (worshiped on Mt. Gassan), and Dainichi Nyorai, the cosmic buddha (worshiped on Mt. Yudono). These are from Jakkoji and enshrined alongside a set of 33 gilded images of Kannon, which give the hall its name. Koganedo is a registered Important Cultural Property.

Haguro Shugendo

Kotakuji Shozen’in became the head temple of Haguro Shugendo in the nineteenth century, inheriting the role from Jakkoji Temple. The temple commemorates the holy ascetic named Nojo (dates unclear) as the founder of worship at Dewa Sanzan. Records tell of the ascetic practicing austerities in the mountains and suggest he had superhuman powers.

For many centuries, Dewa Sanzan has been a training ground for ascetics like Nojo, who engage in rigorous spiritual practices. Kotakuji Shozen’in preserves this heritage and continues Shugendo traditions such as mineiri (peak rituals), which have remained largely unchanged since ancient times. Mineiri were traditionally held four times a year, once in each of the seasons, and involved extended periods of training in sacred mountains. The aki no mine (autumn peak rituals) are the most important of the mineiri at Kotakuji Shozen’in. They are carried out as they were before the religious reforms of the nineteenth century, and are closely associated with the cycle of birth, death, and rebirth.