Dewa Sanzan Jinja Shrine 出羽三山神社

Highlights of a visit to the shrine grounds of Mt. Haguro

Sanjin Gosaiden is located near the top of Mt. Haguro and offers the opportunity to worship all three kami of Dewa Sanzan in a single location. It can be reached by bus, but many visitors choose to walk up the mountainside along the stone path that begins at the Zuishinmon Gate at the foot of the mountain. The 2-kilometer-long path winds through the shrine grounds between rows of ancient cedars. The Jijisugi (“Grandfather Cedar”) is the tallest and oldest, at more than a thousand years old.

A five-storied pagoda stands near the Jijisugi. Buddhist monuments like this are rare on the grounds of Shinto shrines today, as most were removed or destroyed following religious reforms introduced by the Meiji government in 1868. This pagoda dates from the fourteenth century and is a National Treasure.

Farther along the path is Saikan. This former temple building now serves Dewa Sanzan shojin ryori, the cuisine traditionally eaten by ascetics. Meals feature vegetables native to the region and wild plants foraged in the mountains. Visitors can sample the cuisine at Saikan. Reservations must be made in advance.

From Saikan, the path continues to the Sanjin Gosaiden, and on to Mitarashi Pond, where ancient bronze mirrors have been discovered. They are thought to have been offerings, a custom likely common in the Heian period (794–1185). Because of the discovery of mirrors at the pond, Mitarashi Pond is also commonly known as Kagamiike (“Mirror Pond”).

Beyond the Mirror Pond, near the summit of the mountain, is the grave of Prince Hachiko (542–641). He was the son of Emperor Sushun (the 32nd emperor of Japan) and is a central figure in the story of worship on Dewa Sanzan. The grave is maintained by the Imperial Household Agency.

For several months each year, the sanctuaries of Mt. Gassan (1,984 m) and Mt. Yudono (1,504 m) become inaccessible due to heavy snowfall. Mt. Haguro (414 m) receives less snowfall since it is the lowest of the mountains, and is accessible year-round.