Jodoin Temple, Rakando Hall, Funanori Kannon 浄土院

A tea master named Hoshino Dosai built the Rakando Hall in 1640 along with his sons. A Cultural Property of Uji City that was restored in 2015, the hall contains sculptures of “arhats” (rakan), who were disciples of the historical Buddha who had advanced far along the path to enlightenment, though not to the level of the bodhisattvas. The hall has a brilliantly painted dragon on the ceiling, as well as other mythical creatures on the walls.

Jodoin houses a sculpture of Kannon (Sk. Avalokiteshvara), the bodhisattva of compassion, sailing on a boat. The Funanori Kannon depicts the bodhisattva rowing a small craft over a turbulent sea. The image served as an object of devotion for prayers for safe travel. It is richly executed in gold and blue. The original, dating from the Edo period (1603–1867), was stolen after World War II; the present sculpture was completed in 2003 to mark the 950th anniversary of the construction of Byodoin.

Jodoin Temple

[LEGENDS]

Jodoin Temple is dedicated to the Amida Buddha and belongs to the Jodo (Pure Land) school of Buddhism. Though small, the temple is famous for its role in a historical anecdote involving the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537–1598), who unified the country under his banner but died before he could establish a stable government.

In 1587, Hideyoshi was making his way to Kitano Tenmangu Shrine to host the Grand Kitano Tea Ceremony, a gathering of the cultured classes that the warlord hoped would enhance his status in the eyes of the elite, thereby legitimizing his rule. Like powerful samurai who had preceded him, Hideyoshi considered the tea ceremony a potent tool for establishing political alliances.

During the journey to Kitano, it is said, Hideyoshi felt thirsty and in need of refreshment. He came across Jodoin and decided to stop for some tea. He was accustomed to being served tea at places he visited, but his unannounced appearance took the temple’s priest by surprise. In an effort to accommodate Hideyoshi’s wishes, the priest hurriedly served tea to his guest before it had steeped properly.

Hideyoshi was initially taken aback when he saw his cup filled with the pale brew, but after drinking it proceeded to ask for more tea. Though only hot water was poured time and time again, Hideyoshi could see how earnestly the priest was trying to accommodate him by continuously refilling his guest’s cup. The incident amused the warlord, who thereafter recalled Jodoin as the temple with plenty of hot water and no tea.